Delaware Tech Green Thumb: Sustainable Practices

This page is focused primarily on sustainable practices, which are simple and easy techniques you can do. They are Eco friendly and can put a spin to your gardening. Composting and mulching can boost your plants' growth and provide subtle nutrients needed. Rain catches and rain gardens are simple. They save energy and can convert natural rain into usable water for your plants.

The sustainability section of this blog is divided into four sections:

Composting
Mulching
Rain Catches
Rain Gardens

Sustainability defined:

For humans, sustainability is the potential for long-term maintenance of well being, which has environmental, economic, and social dimensions.

Composting

Composting is the foundation of any sustainable garden providing nourishment and a healthy growing environment where our plants can easily flourish. The process has many methods and variations all of which aid our Eco-system in becoming more sustainable. Close to half of the material we throw away, that ends up sitting in our landfills, are compostable materials. If this precious material was not thrown away and contaminated, but instead saved and properly decomposed, it could be used to amend our soil and fertilize our crops or home gardens. By doing this we can replace the usage of dangerous and damaging chemical fertilizers.Composting is simple and easy to do, and is a healthy environmental practice.

What kind of organic matter should you compost?

Do Compost:

Yard waste: leaves, grass clippings, flowers, etc.
Kitchen scraps: eggshells, coffee and tea grounds, fruit and vegetable peelings
Farm waste: straw and manure from herbivores (chicken, turkey, horse)

Do NOT Compost:

Dairy products
Meat
Bones
Grease
Anything that has been treated with chemicals

The ideal mixutue of compost materials are 75% "brown" and 25% "green". "Brown" referring to dried leave, grass clipping or shredded newspaper. "Green refers to fruit and vegetable scraps.

For a better idea of what and what not to compost, here is a helpful link!

http://www.compostinstructions.com/what-you-can-and-cannot-compost/

Before composting can begin, you must have your organic materials. To make collecting easier having a container under the sink or near the trash makes collecting kitchen scraps simple. It is very important to have a lid for the container to prevent attracting insects and pests in the house. Then empty the container once or or twice a week into your compost pile(s).

How should you keep your compost?

Compost is kept in two main ways, compost piles or compost bins. Bins can be elaborate and store bought or simple circles of chicken wire. Each type of bin will work if kept and handled properly.

The second method is the pile method. As it sounds, you keep your compost in a pile of several piles depending on frequency of use. This method can be perceived by some as an eye sore, however it is the most practical when wanting to compost large amounts.

Composting Basics

First off if you want a more steady supply you should have multiple piles or bins. When you add new organic matter to one, you essentially reset the clock to zero. Therefore you should add enough to one pile and then start a new pile while you wait for the older pile to decompose.

For optimal break down of materials the compost must have:

Temperature- the fastest break down of materials are between 140 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This can be helped by black sides on your compost bin or by placing a black tarp over your pile or bin.
Air flow- good air flow is a must, this allows the microbes to receive oxygen that further speeds up decomposition. Airation allows helps fright the odors of the compost that could occur if it is not properly taken care of. Airation can be done by sticking a pitchfork in the compost and mixing it all around or by special mixing tool that can be purchased.
Moisture- A to wet compost can kill helpful bacteria and wash away nutrients and minerals. Whereas a dry compost will take much longer to decompose, the ideal moisture is that of a wrung out sponge, wet yet not saturated.

There is no magic number on how long a pile will take; there are too many factors. After the last organic material has been added just keep turning the pile with a pitchfork every so often. Eventually the compost will become dark, fluffy, and uniform. It will obtain a "earthy" smell and the original material should be unrecognizable. When it has reached this point it will be ready to be used as mulch or turned into the existing soil.

Mulching

Mulching is very beneficial for trees and shrubs, but when done the wrong way can actually damage the plants you are trying to help. Mulching mimics the natural forest environment trees are grown in, and acts as the leaves and organic material that collect on the forest floor; which ultimately improves plant life. By applying a thin layer of mulch (broadly as practical), you not only improve soil structure and air availability to the plant roots, but you also improve temperature and moisture.

The Proper Way to Mulch

First you have to know when to mulch. Now mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than unmulched soil; while in the winter, the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply.This means that in the spring the mulched soil will warm up slower, and will also cool down slower in the fall. If you want to mulch your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply the mulch after the soil has warmed up in the spring. If you already have existing mulched beds, it is best to mulch after the soil has warmed up completely. In the winter, mulch should be applied late in the fall after the ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. This will help moderate winter temperatures in the plant, and also help prevent rodents from using your mulched site as a wintering-over spot.

Mulch Materials

Lawn/Grass clippings- Excellent in vegetable gardens, easy to spread around small plants, spread immediately to avoid rotting. Do not use clippings from lawns treated with herbicides.
Newspaper- Works well to control weeds, only use black inked paper.
Leaf/Leaf Mold- Gives spongy absorbent texture. Best to chop and compost before spreading.
Compost- Improves soil structure, and is an excellent source of plant nutrients.
Bark chips/Composted Bark- Sold in stores, eventually improves soil health, depending on size of chips may last one to three years. Excellent around trees, shrubs, and perennial beds.
Pine Needles- Increase the acidity of the plant.

General Tips

Before mulching remove any weeds present in the general area.
Only apply about 2-4 inches of mulch.
When you do mulch, don't apply directly in contact with the plants.

DO NOT mulch this high!

Use this website if you already have mulch present, and you want to re-mulch.

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/mulching.aspx

Rain Catch Systems

Rain catch systems can be a great way to water your plants without sending your meter a spinning, by collecting the rain water that flows through your gutters into a barrel or other storage container. Allowing you to recycle several hundred gallons, depending on your annual rain fall, to use to water your plants or for whatever you desire. If you live in town or in the city this water is even better to use on plants for it will not contain the chemicals like fluoride and chlorine, giving you and your plants a more pure water.

Rain catch barrels can be as simple as collecting the run off water into the barrels and dipping a watering can in the top to fill the can up. You could even have hose attachment at the bottom and place the barrel up on a stand and allow gravity to force to water out of the hose. If you need more pressure than gravity can supply, a pump can be purchased at any hardware store, providing the power you need.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3vpSzT4aI8

Link to a do it yourself video (it is not a professionally done video) the fitting can be found in your local hardware store. If you can not find a down spout diverter or anything else that will work for your particular situation, simply run the spout directly into the barrel as shown in the picture above.

Maintenance

Clean gutters regularly if needed
If debris is an issue place a screen over the top of the down spout (Highly Recommended)
Empty and clean barrel at least once a year with soap or a biodegradable cleaner

Winter Maintenance

(Below Freezing)

Drain water completely, freezing water can cause cracks or burst the barrel or fitting
Disassemble hoses and detach from down spout
If possible take off the spicket or any outward attachments because they can easily become knocked of during the winter months
Store inside shed, garage or other weather free structure

Rain Gardens

What is a rain garden?

A rain garden is a shallow depression that is planted with deep-rooted native plants and grasses. The garden should be positioned near a runoff source like a downspout, driveway or sump pump to capture rainwater runoff and stop the water from reaching the sewer system.

How to build a rain garden:

Location

Choose a naturally occurring low spot in your yard that is in the sun either full or partial. It should also be an area that gets water regularly during a rainstorm, like near a rain spout or on a slope. Then check drainage of soil, dig a six inch hole and fill it with water. If it drains completely in 24 hours it should work. Holding water any longer can be harmful to plants, as well as a breeding ground for unwanted pests.

Garden

The lay out of the garden should be the long side of the garden towards the water source, this will allow for the most catching of water. The garden should be between 4 and 8 inches deep and level all throughout to maximize the spreading of water so no particular spot ponds. Create a berm (raised edge) on the sides that way water does not just pass through but stays. On the bottom spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch (non-floating mulch) or a compost mix to help establish growth

Plants

The best plants to use for any sort of garden are native plants, but when dealing with a rain garden not all plants will do. These plants must be able to tolerate wet soil (when flooded) and dry soil.