Planning a Garden
There is a lot of time, effort, and organization that must go
into planning a garden in order for it to be a success and what one wants it to
be, but with hard work and the proper procedures it will pay off once
everything grows in well.
In planning a garden one must decide what plants are to be
planted. A great time to figure out what to plant is in the winter so there is
plenty of time to order the seeds and get ready to start the garden before the
growing season begins.
Another important factor to keep in mind in deciding where
to put a garden is the soil type. Some soil is like clay, some sandy, some silt, or a combination of these. This is important because it
will determine how the water drainage is in soil and the water requirements.
This can be determined by taking a soil test and feeling a sample taken from
the area.
When planting the seeds, they should be organized in a
certain and simple fashion. They should be planted in rows and each kind should
be kept together in their own row, so not to get confused with other plants.
Before starting the garden, one should draw a layout on the
computer or a piece of paper. On this drawing of should be included the
measurements of the garden. This will leave less room for error in gardening.
All this taken into consideration should give one an idea of the amount of
fertilizer needed and requirements to make this a great and flourishing garden
that will have much success in yielding the plants and desired crops.
Why Grow Your Own Food?
Growing your own garden provides many benefits to yourself and to your well being, as well as environmental benefits, it promotes food safety, and will most importantly, save money.
Freshness
I'm sure you've heard it before, "fresh is better", "You can taste the difference." But what's all the hype about? There are several reasons for this. First, there's no travel time, from your garden to the dinner table. Vegetables are allowed to ripen on the vine, not in the back of a freight truck. This also means, the vegetables will have better nutrients. As soon as plants/vegetables are picked or cut, the nutrient value decreases. The longer the wait, the lower the nutrient value, which brings us to the most important reason for growing your own garden. Taste. Because vegetables have a higher nutrient value, fresh vegetables are better for you, and really do taste better.Food Safety
Some of the most common concerns about food safety with vegetables, are concerning chemical uses on plants. However, by growing your own food in a garden, you, the homeowner, decide whether or not to use pesticides. Even if a pesticide or herbicide is needed, you have the chance to research products, and decides which is beneficial, and what chemicals will be the safest. That peace of mind in knowing what has been used, and how it's been used.Environmental Benefits
When you grow your own vegetables, you're reducing the carbon footprint on the world, as well as reducing air and water pollution. The ecological footprint is rated on how carbon emissions compare to, and interact with human demand. (The pressure on food sources) Since 1961, the worlds carbon footprint has increased 11-fold. However, by providing your own food resource, you are reducing the use of fossil fuels used in transportation, as well as chemical uses, overall reducing water and air pollution.Personal Benefits
Starting, and tending to a garden can take time, and a little bit of work. One of the greatest personal benefits from starting a garden is the learning experience. You learn about growing cycles, different types of plants, and even problem solving. In doing this, you get plenty of exercise, which is always beneficial to a persons health. This activity and time spent working the garden, will cause you to eat healthier.Economical Benefits
According to researches at Burpee Seed Company, a home garden can result in a 1:25 cost saving ratio. In a practical situation, that's $50 of seed and fertilizer, that produces $1,250 worth of vegetables. Starting a garden is easy, and seeds are inexpensive. On top of that, gardens require little maintenance, usually 3-5 hours for a small garden. (1,500 sq. ft.) Also, by having a garden, you're overall making less trips to the grocery store, saving money on fuel. And in order to continue the savings throughout the growing season, and even out of season, canning and freezing produces is another option that will provide you with cheaper, and better tasting food, even after the growing season is over. Combining all of these factors will save tons of money, and provide you with lots of fresh vegetables, and a healthier lifestyle.When to start planting?
Below is a chart, for 18 of the most common vegetables grown by homeowners. This chart below identifies the crop, the days to maturity, both fall and spring planting dates, as well as planting depths and distances.
Crop
|
Days
to Maturity
|
Spring
Planting Dates
|
Fall
Planting Dates
|
Seed/Plants
100 ft. |
Distance
Between Rows
|
Distance
Between Plants
|
Depth
to Plant
|
Asparagus
|
2nd
season
|
Jan.
15-Mar. 15
|
Nov.
& Dec.
|
50
roots
|
3
to 5 ft.
|
1½
to 2 ft.
|
6
in.
|
Bean, bush
|
50-60
|
Apr.
1 - May 1
|
July
15-Aug. 20
|
½
lb.
|
3
ft.
|
2
to 4 in.
|
1-1½
in.
|
Bean, pole
|
65-75
|
Apr.
1-May 1
|
July
15-Aug. 10
|
½
lb.
|
3
ft.
|
6
to 12 in.
|
1-1½
in.
|
Bean, lima
|
65-75
|
Apr.
1 - June 1
|
July
1-Aug. 1
|
1
lb.
|
2
to 2½ ft.
|
3
to 4 in.
|
1-1½
in.
|
Broccoli
|
60-80
|
Feb.
15-Mar. 15
|
Aug.
1-Sept. 1
|
100
plants
|
2½
ft.
|
14
to 18 in.
|
-
|
Cabbage
|
65-80
|
Jan.
15-Mar. 15
|
Aug.
15-Oct. 1
|
100
plants
|
2½
ft.
|
12
in.
|
-
|
Cantaloupe
|
80-90
|
Mar.
25-Apr. 20
|
Not
recommended
|
1
oz.
|
4
to 6 ft.
|
3½
to 4 ft.
|
1½
in.
|
Carrot
|
70-80
|
Jan.
15-Mar. 20
|
Aug.
20-Sept. 15
|
½
oz.
|
2
ft.
|
2
to 3 in.
|
½
in.
|
Corn
|
80-100
|
Mar.
15-June 1
|
June
1-July 20
|
¼
lb.
|
3
to 3½ ft.
|
12
to 18 in.
|
2
in.
|
Cucumber
|
60-65
|
Apr.
1-May 15
|
Aug.
20-Sept. 1
|
1
oz.
|
3½
to 5 ft.
|
3
to 4 ft.
|
1½
in.
|
Eggplant
|
75-90
|
Apr.
1-May 15
|
July
10-15
|
50
plants
|
3
ft.
|
2½
to 3 ft.
|
-
|
Lettuce
|
60-85
|
Jan.
15-Mar. 1
|
Sept.
1-Oct. 1
|
½
oz.
|
2
to 2½ ft.
|
10
to 12 in.
|
½
in.
|
Onion (mature)
|
100-120
|
Jan.
1-Mar. 15
|
Sept.
1-Dec. 31
|
300
plants or ½ gal. sets
|
1
to 2 ft.
|
3
to 4 in.
|
¾
in.
|
Peas
|
60-80
|
Jan.
15-Feb. 15
|
Not
recommended
|
1
lb.
|
2½
ft.
|
1
in.
|
1½-2
in.
|
Peas, southern
|
60-70
|
Apr.
1-Aug. 1
|
-
|
½
lb.
|
3
ft.
|
4
to 6 in.
|
1½-2
in.
|
Pepper
|
65-80
|
Apr.
1-June 1
|
-
|
50
plants
|
2½
ft.
|
1½
to 2 ft.
|
-
|
Potato
|
70-90
|
Jan.
15-Mar. 1
|
Aug.
1-Aug. 15
|
1
peck
|
2½
to 3 ft.
|
10
to 14 in.
|
5
in.
|
Potato, sweet
|
90-150
|
Apr.
15-June 15
|
-
|
100
plants
|
3½
ft.
|
12
in.
|
-
|
Squash
|
50-55
|
Apr.
1-May 15
|
Aug.
1-20
|
1
oz.
|
3
to 4 ft.
|
2
ft.
|
1½-2
in.
|
squash, winter
|
85-90
|
Apr.
1-Aug. 1
|
-
|
½
oz.
|
5
ft.
|
3
ft.
|
1½-2
in.
|
Tomato
|
70-85
|
Mar.
25-May 1
|
June
1-Aug. 10
|
50
plants
|
3
to 4 ft.
|
2½
to 3 ft.
|
-
|
Watermelon
|
80-90
|
Mar.
20-May 1
|
Do
not plant
|
1
oz.
|
10
ft.
|
8
to 10 ft.
|
1½
in.
|